A weekend in Girona
Celebrating the arrival of spring in Catalonia
Escaping the unseasonal cold and wet spring UK weather, a short break in Girona was just the tonic.
A small, Catalan city, Girona is rich in history, culture, and natural beauty alike, with colourful buildings along the river Onyar, and its picturesque Medieval old town at its centre.
Bridges criss-cross the Onyar through the city centre including the Pont de les Peixateries Velles, a bright red iron bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel, constructed shortly before work began on the famous Parisian landmark: and it is not dissimilar in design.
La Rambla de la Libertad, Girona’s bustling main street, is lined with shops, cafes, and street performers, making it a great place to people-watch. The region is also popular with cyclists, with Girona a central hub to recharge and restock on cycling essentials in one of its many cycle shops.
I arrived to glorious sunshine and just as the Spring Festival - the Festes de Primavera, celebrating the legend of Tarlà, was in town.
The legend of Tarlà commemorates a local acrobat who raised the spirits of the city's residents during a siege in the 17th or 18th century. As the people faced isolation and declining morale, Tarlà performed acrobatic stunts on a wooden beam above the city streets, entertaining and maintaining morale. Honouring his memory, an effigy of Tarlà is hung and swings from a pole, representing resilience and joy amidst adversity.
I arrived in Girona’s historic old town just in time for the "Gegants" parade, a highlight of many Catalan festivals. The parade featured large figures, depicting kings, queens, and mythical characters, all towering several meters tall. These figures, carried through the streets by individuals concealed beneath their skirts, danced and twirled to the lively music of accompanying marching bands. Alongside them, "capgrossos" (big heads) - figures with disproportionately large heads added to the festive atmosphere. The parade provided a vibrant welcome to Girona!
Girona is a popular film location, gaining fame as a filming location for Game of Thrones, notably for the pivotal “walk of atonement” scene in the city.
Other films and TV series shot in Girona include the 2006 film, “Perfume: The Story of a Murderer” and popular 2018 South Korean drama, “Memories of the Alhambra”.
Being a small city, it’s easy to walk everywhere in Girona, and the narrow streets, stone steps, archways, and medieval architecture make it a pretty spot to wander around, and get lost in - though really it’s impossible to get lost as it’s not very big.
The cathedral is perched high atop a hill, dominating the skyline. Its stone city walls offer a delightful walk with panoramic views over Girona and the surrounding countryside, and the shady gardens at the foot of the city walls provide respite from the hot sun—if you want it. But in April, just as the sun was starting to heat up, tourists and locals alike were seeking out the sunniest spots.
I was lucky with the weather during my trip but there’s plenty to do on a rainy day: Check out the Arab Baths, the Museum of Jewish History, or the Museum of Cinema.
No review of Girona would be complete without mentioning the food! There’s a high standard across the region, from tapas and cerveza at sunny pavement cafes to fine dining. Just a couple of kilometers outside Girona’s old town, you’ll find the famous El Celler de Can Roca, considered one of the best restaurants in the world.
For great regional cuisine that won’t break the bank, try Vintages, a cosy bistro in the old quarter serving fresh, seasonal dishes and some good local wines. Be sure to book ahead!
What a beautiful , picturesque town you have described Sarah . It sounds relaxing , whilst at the same time offering many to do and see and eat! . Loved the parades !